About a decade ago (2008), I received a work assignment in Sikkim, India.  I knew of Nepal, Bhutan and Tibet – regions in the Himalayas but I had not heard of Sikkim previously.  Despite briefings by the project leader, it was hard for me to understand the terrain and the people (Indian but looks like Tibetans). I did some internet research and viewed some pictures. Nonetheless, it was still difficult to visualise houses and buildings built on the slopes of mountains and a city up in the clouds.

Sikkim, is a state of India, having joined India as her 22nd state in a referendum conducted in 1975. The state borders Tibet in the north and northeast, Bhutan in the east, Nepal in the west, and West Bengal in the south. Sikkim is the least populous and second smallest among the Indian states. As a part of the Himalayas, Sikkim is notable for its biodiversity, including alpine and subtropical climates, as well as being a host to Kanchenjunga the third highest mountain in the world.

In the following decade, I had made multiple trips to Sikkim and even brought my family there for a vacation in 2017.  Many fond memories and good friends were made during those trips.  Despite the many trips, memories of the first trip are still quite fresh in my mind.

The journey started at Changi Airport where we flew to Kolkata. India being 2.5 hours behind Singapore, we reached Kolkata late but still before midnight. Checking out of the airport, we booked into a hotel for an overnight stay.  The next morning, we returned to the airport after breakfast for a domestic flight to Bagdogra Airport (at Siliguri), an international airport in Northeast India.  We reached Bagdogra around noon; the difference between the metropolis of Kolkata and the inner city of Siliguri was evident immediately.  Siliguri felt rural compared to the urban intensity of Kolkata.

Since my first trip in the 2008, Siliguri has grown to become a bustling city with malls and other major infrastructure.  Bagdogra is today bursting at its seams with heavy air traffic.

After a quick lunch stop, the entourage continued onwards to Gangtok.  It was a long car journey, more than four hours long, but it did not feel that way to the excited traveller in me.  The tall buildings of the city quickly changed into small single-storied houses along the roadside.  As we left the city and entered the countryside, the view of houses melt into the woods as the road winded through forests and woods. 

Ever curious, I pelted the driver with questions about landmarks seen along the way.  There was the railroad connecting the various cities and towns of the state of West Bengal.  Parts of the mighty Teesta River could also be seen along the way.  I noted a right turn at a junction (near Sevoke) and was informed that the road led (and still leads) to Bhutan!

Once in a while, a small village would emerge out of the woods.  We would speed by the village and continue on our journey.  About an hour into the journey, the air began to feel chilly and we were advised to put on our winter coats. As the journey continued, we started to the mountain roads and the cars sped along the roads hugging the mountain slopes.  Eventually the Teesta River emerged and we could view houses built on the mountain slopes next to the river.

About three hours plus into the journey, we were delighted to see a big signpost signalling that we had reached Sikkim.  We entered the town of Rangpo where we were ushered into a restaurant.  Our driver took our passports and other supporting documents to register our entrance into the state.

Rangpo is one of two border towns (the other being Melli) straddling Sikkim and West Bengal, two states of India.  It is the main entry point to visitors to Sikkim.  Foreigners are required to stop at Rangpo when entering and leaving Sikkim to record details for Inner Line Permit.

After a good rest and with the formalities settled, we continued on our journey towards Gangtok, the state capital.

Gangtok is the capital of Sikkim with a population of about 100,000. Situated at an elevation of 1,650m, Gangtok is part of East Sikkim and the administrative hub of the state.  There are hospitals, universities and many monasteries serving the people.  Also the tourism hub of the state, most tourists make Gangotk their first stop before exploring the rest of the state.

By evening, the place turned dark and we could no longer see anything until we passed by towns. I was getting restless as it had been close to 24 hours since I left our home to embark on the journey*.  Soon the driver made a few turns and we reached our hotel. 

My first lodging, Rhenock House, in Gangtok was a hotel property with the hallmarks of a colonial mansion.  The rooms were big and the ceiling was high.  We were greeted by a friendly staff who took our passports for registration. He was also the porter later bringing our luggage to our rooms and later our waiter during dinner (we were tempted to check the kitchen to find out whether he was the cook as well!).

* the state of Sikkim has an airport at Pakyong which has direct flights to Kolkata and Guwahati although these services are currently suspended.  Visitors currently fly into New Delhi and Kolkata where they can take connecting flights to Bagdogra. With better roads today (and in the event of smooth traffic), visitors can reach Gangtok from Bagdogra in about three to four hours.

It was a tiring journey but it was also exciting. I was deep into an Indian state in the Himalayas that I had not heard of before taking up this assignment.  The air was chilly but comfortable.  I wash my face quickly before going down to the dining room for dinner. The other members of the entourage were also lively despite the long journey.  We had an enjoyable dinner confirming our plans for the coming week.  Nonetheless, we were still on Singapore time and it was a late dinner to us.  We chatted for a while before retiring to our room. I did not change, went straight to bed and fell asleep immediately.

Part 1 of two-part series on Breathtaking Himalayas - Sikkim. Join us next week for the second half of PK's reflections on his experiences in Sikkim.

Part 2 of series can be found here.

VISIT SIKKIM WITH US! 7 DAYS BREATHTAKING HIMALAYAS TOUR IN SIKKIM [CLICK HERE]

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